3 τρόποι ΕΠΙΣΚΕΥΗΣ Γυψοσανίδας


1
1 point

Ακολουθούν 3 τρόποι επισκευής γυψοσανίδας ή πώς μπορείτε να επιδιορθώσετε γυψοσανίδες χρησιμοποιώντας τη μέθοδο επικάλυψης πλέγματος γυψοσανίδας για αρχάριους, ενδιάμεση επισκευή ταινίας γυψοσανίδας μέθοδος ή προηγμένη μέθοδος.

Βίντεο και σχόλια από το κανάλι Mr. Build It


Σου αρέσει; Μοιράσου το με τους φίλους σου!

1
1 point

40 Σχόλια

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

  1. The "Pro" method is by far the easiest for a good result. I agree with others that a backing support is a good idea no matter what, since you are mudding anyway.

  2. I'm a journeyman and without backing, all it takes is somebody to hit or bump the patch for it to crack. You aren't supposed to use paper tape with quick mud.

  3. I'm a handyman/remodeler and my favorite method is one taught to be by a drywaller of 40+ years. Follow step number two with the backing but use a few more screws and backing around all edges. Using a sharp knife V out the edges. Use 20 minute mud and create a runny slurry then take an old paintbrush and coat edges getting in deep. Immediately mix more 20 minute mud to a normal consistency and press in firmly. Allowed to dry for several hours before sanding and then apply one more thin coat over the whole area with reg dwall mud. Sand flush when it's dry and you're good to go for primer and paint. No tape needed as long as the patch isn't too large. I've done this method for small patches for a while now and never had any issues.

  4. Are you demoing this wall eventually? Why would you do this to your own house! It's clearly patched now with that texture/paint sheen off from the rest of the wall.

  5. As a master journeyman in drywall/framing. Both 2 and 3 are pro ways. The third one people in the trade call “California patch” lol also backing is very important I had the video on mute so I couldn’t hear the reason why you didn’t put backing in the third one. Either way for an average home repair it was good!

  6. I believe you usually want to primer, over dryed, sanded and 'damp-wiped' joint compound, before painting. All else…is exceptional. funny…i actually prefer the 'intermediate' method. Ha ha!…

  7. You got 2 and 3 mixed up – that big of a hole #3, you don’t want to do a California patch.
    You make sure the patch has something to grab on to. If the hole was bigger and maybe intentional, you don’t just add a piece of backing like #2, you actually find the original stud or rafters and grab on to that
    Oh and after dry sanding, make sure to wet sand (with a damp sponge or towel) on the perimeter of you patch compound to lose the edges therefore making sure the repair is seamless- this is as important as the last step which is texture being right

  8. anybody else notice that the texture was not matched very well? I guess he said how to patch it not do proper texture. I agree with others still needs screws and please don't use spray can texture unless you don't care if it looks good or not.

  9. For the pro version, will there be any “give” to that hole, since there aren’t any screws holding it in place, just a thin layer of tape/compound?

  10. It’s actually a 20 min working time which means it starts to dry around that duration not completely dry and ready to sand yet. Also the pro way shown here is commonly known as a hot patch or California patch. Ironically a lot of pro sheet rock people look down on that method lol. In rather case all these are good examples for home owner diy types.

  11. great video, easy instructions. I would add the pink stuff as an option for mud…easier for beginners. My hope is that like popcorn ceilings, orange peel goes away.

  12. Thanks for the video it was really useful!
    I wish we saw a close up after they’re all done
    Also pros and cons of each one would’ve been useful..